How are ocean waves formed? Distinguish between a wave of oscillation and a wave of translation.
(UPSC geography optional paper 1 2019, 15 Marks)
Answer.
When surface water of the ocean rise and fall alternatively, is called a wave.
Wave is formed when rock is thrown in stable water but in oceans,
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| wave terminology |
Wave is formed when rock is thrown in stable water but in oceans,
- Common ocean wave is formed by pressure from the air that creates friction between water and air.
- Strong winds like cyclones, hurricanes, tornados create violent waves due to high speed. Stronger the winds the stronger wave.
- A tidal wave is created by gravitation pull from the moon and sun.
- Very hazardous waves, a tsunami is formed due to earthquakes, landslides, volcanic eruptions in the ocean.
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| wave formation |
The wave passes energy through water which makes water circular motions.
Wave Terminology:
Crest:- The highest part of the wave is called the crest.
Trough:
- The lowest part of the wave is called the trough.
Wavelength:
- The horizontal distance between two successive wave crest and wave trough.
Wave height:
- The vertical distance between trough and crest. The highest wave height is recorded in tsunami waves about 150-meter height.
Ocean wave moves in two directions:
- Horizontal direction
- Vertical direction, moving up and down.
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| wave oscillation and translation |
- Wave oscillation means moving water particles up and down whereas wave of translation means move water particles forward in wave direction.
- A wave of oscillation occurs in deep water while the wave of translation occurs in surface water.
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